Mountain Project Map - Harpers Ferry

Friday, July 1, 2011

Loudon Hts 6.30.11

I met Dennis after work yesterday for some climbing at Loudon Hts. We parked at the trailhead in the large lot just down from the gas station & hiked to the top. Double ropes got us down from the bolts, which we then pulled & I began racking up for a new (for us, at least) route. The climb followed the discontinuous cracks left of the East-facing dihedral up to a tree with an established rap station. Along the way, I encountered many spiders, a couple of brick-sized loose blocks, lots of lichen... but also sweet layback flakes, finger/ hand jams & near the top of the pitch some stemming & an off-width. A quality line bottom to top, with varied, fun climbing throughout its length. Adventurous 5.6 G, standard rack + a #5 cam for the top.

There is a short pitch above, which I've climbed previously as a variation finish to another climb; yesterday, we simply rapped back down (single rope) to the bottom. One of the loose blocks I was able to safely remove on lead, the other on rappel.

We finished the day on the arete & crack to the right of the dihedral (I led the arete, but placed gear so Dennis could finish on the crack). Ball nuts or micro cams will keep you from tumbling down to 340 if you blow the opening moves.

Except for the top of the cliff where we started, we were in the shade the entire time. With sunset upon us, we opted to rap down at the wide-spot cliff & follow the road back.



Carl said...

"Adventurous" is intended as descriptive & not to be misconstrued as an attempt on my part to name an established line.

Conrad said...

Carl, hope you get the chance to post more often. I enjoy your trip reports. When you go to Loudon Heights again check out the new sporty looking line on the left side of the Paw Paw cove. Looks juggy and fun though the top has some lichen to be dealt with.