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Saturday, November 22, 2014

Balcony Jr. Mini Guide (preserving the guide)

Since the Md Mini Guides blog is being discontinued I wanted to preserve the Balcony Jr. Mini Guide here. It is missing some information that is available on Mountain Project but is definitely a useful guide.
The PDF stored on my Google Drive

Friday, October 3, 2014

Adopt-A-Crag Day: Harpers Ferry, November 15, 2014

Mid-Atlantic Climbers has announced they will be doing an Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag day on November 15, 2014.
You can find

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

See Mountain Project for new HFC Climber Activity

If you want to see news or signs of activity on climbing at Harpers Ferry I recommend going to the Harpers Ferry page at Mountain Project.. I don't have the material or time to keep the blog going but want to connect you to information so you can get out there and enjoy everything the area has to offer.

I've noticed that some climbers have been visiting the crags of Harpers Ferry and then logging their ascents on They've also been contributing their ratings. Most are positive but there is always one or two who are the negative nelly in the bunch and throw the ratings off by low balling the quality. Some climber "Kirby" has given a "bomb" or 1 star rating to some of the classics. These are routes that many well traveled climbers agree are top notch for Maryland routes. We all know that there is better rock/routes out there but don't take it upon ourselves to dump on the local resources. My advice is to pay attention to the positive reviews and make the trip to sample the routes for yourselves. Dwelling in the negative makes life suck.
Climber on "Oh, My Eyes" at Skink Rock. See for more. Pic by Josh S.

I found a few nice pictures that

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Gym to Crag & The Future of Fixed Anchors

I want to share two very important topics with you. They both affect the resources available to us within the water gap at Harpers Ferry and they both were recently discussed in the "Vertical Times" publication from

Monday, February 11, 2013

The Tiers - Elk Ridge - 2 Routes - Information

On the HFC Web Guide The Tiers information only includes boulder problems. There are two routes to be mentioned as well. I've updated the Harpers Ferry Mountain Project pages to include The Tiers and the two routes.

Link to the Mountain Project page

I do not have photos at this time. Please feel free to contribute to the Mountain Project page.

School Bus Turnaround parking spots

Some climbers have reported receiving parking tickets for parking at the school bus turnaround at the western end of Sandy Hook, MD. I had posted prior to these tickets being issued HERE & HERE with instructions on how to park. People received tickets after these posts so I thought I'd look a little closer at the signs.

This spot is used to access Elk Ridge climbing (Balcony Rock, Balcony Jr., Outlying Area, all of the bouldering, etc.). Carpooling is required because there are only 2 spots at this location.

I examined the signs at the turnaround. There is the central sign saying no parking in the turnaround and on both sides of the semicircle are directional parking signs. They indicate, with arrows, that parking inside of these signs is not allowed. The spots that appear to be legal are outside the No Parking zone and are not in the actual turnaround. If the two spots are full you must find somewhere else to park. Please adhere to the rules for parking in this area and keep this issue "off the radar". Parking is already very limited and to lose these prime spots for accessing all of Elk Ridge would be a huge loss.

If you are at this parking area and see other people parking illegally then please, using your own judgment, consider educating them on the fines that have been issued and work to maintain this access point.

See the Parking page of the HFC Web Guide or the HFC Google map for more parking options and information.


Saturday, February 9, 2013

Harpers Ferry Outdoor Festival - June 15, 2013

More information to share. I picked up this bit of information from my discussion with Kandee of River & Trail Outfitters.  I've seen but never participated in the Tim Gavin Race. I believe this festival is an expansion of the race and it looks like fun. I noticed the festival planners include climbers in their list of

Friday, February 8, 2013

Dining Establishments - Update

I stopped in at River & Trail Outfitters to explore for potential solutions to what seems an inevitable access crisis (ie parking) for climbers visiting HF. While there I spoke with a very knowledgeable employee by the name of Kandee.  She turned me on to all kinds of information including two dining establishments you may want to visit while in HF. I had mentioned I

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Balcony Rock, Route Update

I revised the Balcony Rock section of Mountain Project to include a "new" route. We have climbed it for years but the top anchor setup is now easier so you may want to place the route on your to-do list. Advanced notice, the rating could be off a little.
"Train Song"

Ancient Tools

@ Balcony Jr.
Just sharing for fun. Looks like the signs of the hammer glancing off the piton and hitting the rock wall are still visible.
Thanks, Enjoy

Ice is Nice

(edited 2/7/13)

It's winter and some of you are searching for ice to climb. It doesn't seem to be an abundant resource in our area and it takes special conditions for it to form. I wanted to share some possibilities for those who are on the hunt.

First, recall a previous post and possibly the best ice, though access issues exist, in Harpers Ferry [ HERE ].

I stopped in at a waterfall in Harpers Ferry this past weekend to see if it might be frozen. Since it had rained

Maryland Limestone

I've posted here before on limestone climbing in Maryland near Shepherdstown, WV [ HERE and HERE ] and wanted to revisit the topic after a recent excursion to these cliffs.
See below for a topo/beta photo

My experience with limestone has always included

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Obscure Alternatives

While this post, at first, will appear to have nothing to do with Harpers Ferry rock climbing, some HFC blog and website users live close enough to possibly find this useful.

Obscure Alternatives
Fringe climbing and routes less traveled: A guide to less than mainstream climbing in eastern Penna.

I was recently digging through old boxes of personal stuff from the late 90's. I came across a copy of a hand written climbing guide to

Friday, December 7, 2012

How to Get Rich in Harpers Ferry

Rich memories, that is. Read on.


As the blogger and web page host for Harpers Ferry Climbing I get a unique perspective on the flow of information on climbing at Harpers Ferry and I get to see some of the feedback mechanisms that are at play